Waterproof IP68 5pin plugs parts? Anyone?

Hi There!
I recently bought this IP68 plugs off ebay:

Im trying to find this part in Fritzing but the name is quite confusing (SP13…?) so I don’t know where to start, or maybe the part is not already created on Fritzing. If not, where can I download it?


There doesn’t appear to be a part for this (not a big surprise it is pretty specialized), how you proceed depends on what you are trying to do. If you are making a pcb and don’t care that much about breadboard use a 5 pin header to get pads on the pcb to connect the wires from the connector to. If you are doing something like an instructable and want an image of the connector in breadboard, then you would either need to make a new part or convince someone else to do so. Because the connector shell is complex and demand isn’t likely to be high that may be difficult.


Oh no, it’s only for myself, to be able to order a PCB with these sockets. All I need is to be able to drag them into my schematic and see all 5 pins together so yeah I guess I will try to learn how to edit a simple component to make it look (schematic and phisically) what I need


You will likely discover part making is a fair bit more difficult that you are expecting. Do you have a data sheet for the socket (or one that matches from one of the distributors as Ebay rarely has specs :slight_smile: ) to give a footprint layout. A pcb footprint and schematic is easy enough for me to do given a mechanical drawing, breadboard will be something generic. Do you intend to mount the socket directly to the pcb not via wires? If you are using wires a 5 pin header should do fine (depending on the wire gauge the connectors are of course, the standard header is .038in diameter and that may or may not be big enough for the wire you are using). Again it is easy enough for me (or you if you are familiar with an svg editor such as Inkscape) to modify something to change the hole size if I know what is required.


How does that thing connect to the PCB.

It that a plug that you add wires to and connect to something like a std 0.100" header on the PCB, because you can just use the CORE header.

You could convert a pic to svg to make the breadboard view. Last vid here :-

Thanks to both replies. The idea is to create a “sockets board” so basically all these 5 pins sockets will be directly soldered to this board, and then the board will have a header that will be wired to the main board (MKRFOX1200), so I don’t have a million wires floating around.

So yes, direct solder to the PCB is the intent. No wires from socket to PCB.

I don’t know where to find the maker for this sockets, like you said ebay doesn’t provide much information and I can’t find more detail on them. I wish I found these on RS or Digikey as they always provide the full datasheet with all dimensions.
I will check tutorials on them and see if I can deal with manual measurements…

Thanks guys!

A google search for IP68 turns up a variety of manufacturers so with a socket in hand you may be able to identify a data sheet that matches to get the mechanical dimensions of the pcb footprint (although I’d guess these aren’t usually pcb mount). Otherwise calipers to measure the placement and size of the pins should also work. We basically need the x/y coords of the pins and the size of hole the pin needs to fit in to to make a footprint.


Yes I think Im goint to try manually…measure with calipers and print out a test pcb on paper, and see how they match…I don’t expect to have to adjust it too many times

Oh I think I found the exact manufacturer and PN:
weipu sp1312/SC5
But still all the pages that show it, point to a PDF with very vague details, actually they show the 5pin model with a non regular pattern in the pins and mine is totally equal spaced circular pattern
5x1mm is the only valuable information I can find

I’m not really getting this.

You have a box where you will drill 13mm holes and mount multiples of the socket part, and then connect them with wires to a PCB. Then from that you have a header rows to connect to an Arduino in a shield arrangement.

Why do you need the datasheet.

No no no…sorry I probably didn’t explain myself.
My plan is to use the board to directly solder all the sockets to them. No wires between sockets and board.
Then from this custom socket board, a ribbon cable or whatever to my microcontroller board
So I need (or maybe not) the PDF so see the exact dimensions (distances, diameters, etc)

I think you will need to measure a real part, there doesn’t seem to be enough of a pdf to specify what you want, because that isn’t the intended use of the sockets. You may or may not, depending on your application specifics, which we don’t know, need to worry about mechanical stability. The connectors look to be quite bulky and there is a good change that they will rip out of the board if you don’t supply strain relief somehow (solder is not mechanically strong). Having the connectors mounted in a hole on a metal panel with wires that connect to a small board that in turn connects to a header to the micro may be the best mechanical solution (or may not if size or some other consideration is in play).


These are commonly referred to as aviation connectors and they do make a PCB mount variant.

I do have a bunch of the blue ones the OP posted and I can not see how they would be used as PCB mount due to the fact the nut that holds them on is on the wire side of the panel connector. That would mean mounting them to the panel and then soldering them to the PCB. When using wires you make sure the connector is small enough to fit through the hole and then you can prewire the connectors before mounting them to the panel. You can see on the PCB mount one I posted above the nut is on the connector side meaning you can have them soldered to the PCB before mounting them to the panel.

The pins look beefy, but I think the boys are correct about strain relief because I bet the plug needs quite a bit of force to plug in and out. Screwing the nut down to the PCB will help in, but not out, and it will need very big copper pads to give them enough adhesion to the PCB to not lift off, if they don’t crack their centers out.

Mmm…while I totally understand all these points, I have to partially disagree to some of them
Yes the sockets have the nut at the solder side, but I would firstly assemble them into the box, and them solder the board inside the box to all the connectors. The box Im using is sturdy enough so it won’t bend (4mm thickness walls), not just one of those cheap connection boxes. And most fo the times the sockets will be plugged in once in a lifetime and forever, they may eventually need one change in their life.
(it’s an IoT device with universal inputs, once it’s sold to the customer, the sensor has been picked already and will be there all the time).
My only precaution would have to be to have the socket holes at exact distances so the PCB board fits nicely later on their back

But what if someone manages to break one of the connectors after assembly? You would likely need to unsolder all the rest to get one out to replace it. That may not be an issue in your application, but it is something to consider before doing this as a change now may avoid painful trouble later. As noted if you can get the position and size of the pins accurately enough, we can may a part easily enough and it may work OK.


Another problem is accuracy. You want the holes in the PCB accurate, but when you lock the plugs with the nut to the box their positional accuracy is dependant on your box holes. If the nuts were on the other side like Sub’s it wouldn’t be a problem. Are these separate PCB for each plug, because that wouldn’t be as bad.

Well the initial idea was to have one single PCB for all the sockets…Yes I understand I would require a certain accuracy during assembly and if one breaks it’d be a pain o remove solder for them all an so on…
But to me, soldering 5 wires to each of 4 connectors and then to the PCB (40 solder points ) sounds like a true harass especially if I have to build 10 or more of these.

Let’s take another approach. Do you guys know of any other waterproof (don’t need to be IP68, IP66 is enough) socket for 5-7 pins that can be soldered to PCB on the socket side?


Hi! Did you ever solve this one? I am also looking for a 5-pin cable solution where I can solder one end to PCB.

Well first I totally gave up on fritzing and learner KiCad, which was definitely worth the time. I can build my own circuit using just any component in the market. It’s 20x more powerful
Second I never used sockets anymore, I just used gland IP68 wire pass-thru connectors and had bare cables direct to my board with screw terminal sockets.