Pay to get fritzing parts added?

I am doing some work with Fritzing, and there are two parts that I would really like added, but I don’t have the time or creative power to make new parts. One should be simple and the other one shouldn’t be hard as much as it may take a little graphics work. I am willing to pay a small amount of money to get these done. If these already exist somewhere, please let me know where.

  1. A button with only two pins - all of the buttons in the parts bin have four pins, but I hate having students work with four-pin buttons, because they always put it in sideways. Additionally, they always jump off of the breadboard. So I always buy buttons with just two pins. However, there isn’t a matching part in Fritzing that I could find. The specific button I am using is here: http://www.banggood.com/100Pcs-Momentary-Tactile-Tact-Push-Button-Switch-2-Pin-DIP-6x6x5mm-p-1051991.html?rmmds=search

  2. I have never figured out what the part number is for this (maybe MB-102, but that’s actually the breadboard part number I think), but many breadboards are shipping with these really awesome power supplies that you can get for under a dollar each that attach directly to your breadboard. They are great because it is super-easy to add a battery to them or plug them into a wall or power them with USB. Anyway, you can see one here - http://www.banggood.com/5Pcs-MB102-Breadboard-Module-Adapter-Shield-3_3V5V-For-Arduino-Board-p-1009201.html?rmmds=search

There are a few other items on the wishlist (like smaller-profile electrolytic capacitors), but those have been my two biggest issues, and if someone was willing I would be willing to negotiate an amount to build those, and preferably make them open source and part of the standard parts list. You can email me directly at jonathan@bartlettpublishing.com or post here if you know of where I can find such parts.

Strange the bin doesn’t have a 2 pin momentary sw, but it shouldn’t be too hard.

The 2nd one will be a bit of work, but a vaguely remember a board that shape.

I’m sure Peter will look into it, but he will probably need a datasheet/drawing.

EDIT
This is the one it reminded me of.

I believe your button is also known as a ‘switch’. Looking/searching in the parts bin I find several of them. One of which is bound to suit your needs. Have a look again. I’ve used something very similar footprint wise inside my projects. Good luck!

For item 2 it is available from here somewhere (I have a copy):

(edit with a better url):

http://omnigatherum.ca/wp/?tag=fritzing

Its in the forth set and still available as YwRobot_Breadboard_Power_Supply_v5.fzpz. There are a number of other interesting items in here too (although some of them I couldn’t find any more). Adafruit also has a large repository of their parts that they maintain which may have the button you are looking for.

Peter

1 Like

Thank you all! I will take a look at these tonight.

He looks to be correct, despite the number of switches we have I can’t find one that is 2 wire they are all 4 wire tactile (which up until now is all I had ever seen). However that is simple enough to cure, I just modified a 4 wire (which has an odd pcb footprint) to be two wire with the leads in the center of the body and the pcb foot print spaced .2 inches apart which may not be correct (every other dimension on that web page but not pin spacing nor size :slight_smile: ) Try this and see if it does what you need.

2wirePushbutton.fzpz (6.3 KB)

Peter

vanep - The two-legged button part works great, but a few cosmetic issues:

  1. The preview image in the parts bucket still has the four legs
  2. The legs are actually kind of hard to see on the board. This was also true of the other button, too, but only having one makes it more difficult to see. I’m not quite sure what to do about this, unless you offset the legs a little so there is more of them to see.
  3. Having rubber-band legs would also be helpful.

1 and 2 are easy, didn’t copy the breadboard view in to icon for the first and darken the connector so it shows up better for the second. Bendable leads are more of a challenge, I’ve successfully done them before but as usual this time they are being difficult. I’ll poke at it a bit more and see if I can convince them to work on the switch…

Peter

OK time to ask the experts for help :slight_smile: (hopefully @steelgoose is reading). Below are two copies of the 2 wire push button (the non bendable one acts a little strange as it is configured still as bendable even though it isn’t). As far as I can see the bendable version is the same as my 4 wire ammeter that works except for the fact the pb version doesn’t work. This isn’t the first time this has happened, but the last time when I copied the exact parts from the ammeter it worked, but its time to find out what I’m doing wrong. Both svgs have been run through my python script to remove the style commands (which bendable legs won’t work with) but the normal one still works so that shouldn’t be the problem.

pb_nonbendable.fzpz (6.6 KB)

(edit: replaced this with one with group breadboard defined which the original didn’t have after I ungrouped everything, still broken though)

pb_bendable.fzpz (6.6 KB)

Any clues?

(edit:

Yep, turns out it cares about one of shape type: (rectangle to line, perhaps most likely) or fill (none to same color as the line) or perhaps both because making those 2 changes makes it work (its currently misaligned but I expect I can figure that out).

pb_bendable_fixed.fzpz (6.6 KB)

Peter

Hi Peter, I will play around with them and get back to you. :slight_smile:

Yep,you are right, the bendable leg has to be a line. The color of the line does not make any difference; what ever color you make it will be the color of the bendable leg. The width of the line also makes a difference; that will be the width of the bendable leg. You should rotate them 90 deg. to be parallel with the pin. It does not make any difference which way you rotate, the bendable leg will always anchor on the end closes to the center of the part. The bendable leg also does not need to be touching the pin, it can be anywhere in the drawing and work just the same, and it will still anchor on the end closes to the center of the part.

1 Like

Thanks, by experimenting I have discovered all those things. The misalignment was partly the line being oriented the wrong way and partly a weird offset in the body of the part, it seems that the bendable lead also wants to be in the center of the body of the part in order to be correct on the grid. As well there is a strange interaction in Inkscape on the line. If I reduce the height of the line (the direction opposite to stroke width) from the 50 it was down to 30 so the line is circular (after I figured out I needed to be inheriting the stroke-cap round as well) I have to set it to 20 multiple times and it moves vertically (and reduces the height by perhaps 10 each iteration) until I can get it down to the 30 that I want. I don’t know why but in the end I got it where I want it and it now seems to be working correctly. So this version should do what the OP wanted with all 3 issues fixed:

2wire_pb_bendable_legs.fzpz (6.6 KB)

Peter

Yea… That’s better. :grinning: