Peter,
Thanks you for your quick answer, however I’m looking for the RPi 3 Hat shape, the one you posted is for the RPi Zero.
Between your instructions are useful and I’ve been able to load the SVG of the RPi 3 Hat with success.
Thanks you,
Clément
As long as we got your problem solved I’ happy :-), I don’t actually see a PI 3 board shape and took the first one I found which was the Zero. Its easy enough to make another part if you point me at the correct svg though if you need it as a part.
Peter
Hello.
I am looking for the Pi Modell B Hat Template as well.
The link from steelgoose seems not to work anymore?
I cannot find anything downloadable in the forum either.
My perception was that the shown format by steelgoose should be a Standard shape in fritzing.
I would much much appreciate to get Access to this file.
Or am I maybe too blind? 
Thanks a lot,
Ole
I suspect that may be because it is now in core parts. Try a search for “raspberry pi” in the parts bin (magnifying glass icon) and two templates one for a PI shield (no model given) and one for the pi B+ hat (which I suspect is the one from the missing link) show up.
Peter
Hey,
no, your mentioned PCB-shape has the full size of the Raspberry B+. One with sharp edges, one with rounded edges).
I am really looking for the shape of the Raspberry Sensor Hat (like shown above by Steelgoose).
Ole
Install the Adafruit Raspberry Pi.fzbz library and see if it is there.
If it’s not there do a Goo search and add Fritzing. Do image search and look for the image, it may lead to a file.
Then your best bet would be to ask @steelgoose if he still has a copy of it (unless you can find one as Old_Grey suggested).
Peter
Thanks to Old_Grey and vanepp.
I downloaded adafruit library and there are indeed some hats. But they all are ready and not blank.
I am not yet professional enough to create with that my own blank PCB-shape.
I contacted steelgoose and hope for a positive Reply.
In the meantime I wait for the postwoman to bring my very first PCBs created with Fritzing ;-))
Ole
Well that was hours of deleting nodes - stupid EAGLE to FZ converter -.
RPi hat - blank.fzpz (12.0 KB)
Thank you, Old_Grey !!!
This is great support of newbies like me. I really appriciate your work and support.
And yes, this is what I was looking for. Wohooow!!
And on top my exploratioy spirit is awake now. I will try to better understand of how to do these shapes by myself.
Inkscape will be the next step for me I guess.
Ole
PS: my first PCBs arrived today from AISLER. It is a bit like Christmas (at least the first time ;-))
Make sure you throughly check it with a gerber viewer - Gerbv is free - before you order stuff or you could be wasting $.
Just wanted to say a big thanks for the pi-hat part! Started working on one today! 
On the edge of off topic, what is the best way of routing from the outer edge of the pins… try to fit them between the inner pins?
Whatever way makes the routing easiest and satisfies the drc requirements (and the fab house’s requirements) is good. Between the pins usually has the least space and takes the most care to route (i.e. you likely need to reduce the grid size to get enough clearance) but as long as the spacing is enough for your fab house that’s fine.
Peter
The linkhttp://imgh.us/RaspberryPi_b+_display-slot_pcb-shape.svg is not working. Anyone have the svg for the hat 3 b hat? i wount auto route.
Soo I thought I’d re-open this as I too was expecting the pi hat in the parts library to have the wholes cut out, at the least for the mounting screw holes, but ideally for the cut outs (which are all drawn on, but don’t appear to be set to cut out on the PCB).
Additionally is there a way to be absolutely sure the 40pin header is set on the right space, because if that doesn’t line up perfectly then the other cut outs, including the screw holes, will be off too.
I’m using this alongside the header Peter made: Raspberry Pi 40pin Header
If there’s a possibility the two could ‘snap’ into place on the PCB layout that would be exceptionally helpful.
James.
Typically that isn’t done in a part because you can’t undo it without making a new part. With the positions on silkscreen, the user of the part can drag a hole over the mounting holes (if they need mounting holes) and have them drilled, but route copper over them if they don’t need the mounting holes. Slots in boards are more of a problem. I have been told (I haven’t tried it) that the cheap board houses either don’t do slots or Fritzing doesn’t provide the correct gerber layer. That said @opera_night is best at getting this to work, he has a bunch of tutorials in the forums. Basically you need to take the paths in @Old_Grey 's pcb svg and convert it in to a single path using union and difference then load it in pcb view . There are a bunch of bugs in 0.9.4 and earlier, so the ideal is to use 0.9.5 (but you need to build it from source.) As to the positioning, it says the original came from eagle2fritzing so the pins and slots should be accurate. I should probably revisit my PI 40 pin header, I made a new better one for the RPI 4B and am just waiting for a set of test boards to make sure the footprint works. The main advantage is that standard 24mil traces will route between the pins without DRC complaining and you could (but don’t on the RPI) stack them more than 2 deep.
Peter
Hi Peter,
So as for the mounting holes I think you’re saying I can do that by adding in a drill/solder point on each spot, can you advise me as to how I manually add those in please?
Also I’ve printed it out and I’ve found that actually those slots (not mount points) for the USB and ethernet aren’t as deep as the ones on my actual Pi (3 Model B pictured). But if that’s a hasstle as you say then I’m happy for it to be a board with no cut outs - which makes more space for my circuitry anyway.
Thanks, James.
Sure, this is a PI 3 in pcb view. I grab a hole (circled in red on the right side) and View->align to grid unselected so I can move the hole where I like (not on the grid.) I changed the hole diameter from the default 2.3mm to 3mm to match the mounting hole size and dragged it over the hole in silkscreen. This will cause a non plated through hole to be drilled in the pcb. If you want a copper ring increase the ring thickness from 0 (20 thou is the usual value.)
Peter
Thank you very much peter!
I made a hat for Pi3B if you want!
Overlap a Raspberry PI to see if it’s good for you… I upload also the svg if you wanto to make any modifications.
HAT PI3.fzz (3.7 KB)
Cheers.
