Possible to have someone check me for errors?

Hello! Just made my first schematic in this program and tried converting it to PCB (Iv’e only made circuits on stripboard before)VCO fritz file.fzz (24.2 KB) . I’m pretty sure I got it correct but was hoping I could have someone more experienced take a quick peak?

The 10 pin power connector is where my power will be coming in. Pins 1 and 1- are -12v while pins 5 and 6 are +12v. The line from pin 4 to the ground of the 100k pot was placed there last minute because I realized I didn’t actually have my grounds going anywhere when I was organizing the PCB and need to be able to connect them to ground.

The CV input, saw out, and triangle out, will all be ground the the case through the jack.

Thanks ahead of time!

A quick look says the pcb wiring matches the schematic.

Using different trace widths in different places is fine (ground and power are often thicker than data lines, but there is no reason to go to the “super fine” 8 mil for the 2 bottom layer traces coming off of the power connector.

In general, shallow corner are preferred to the 90 degree used for most of that circuit. Shorter traces, and fewer corners are also generally preferred. A little work can cut some of those trace to half the length you used. Once the actual parts are positioned where you want (which optionally can then be locked to prevent accidental shifts), on a 0.1 inch grid, you can change the grid size to a smaller value, to help route the traces where you want.

‘backtracking’ traces is generally to be avoided. When practical, connect to the nearest pin for the net, then continue on to the next. Instead of going past, then coming back.

If you a planning to have that pcb created, cleanup up the silkscreen labeling would make it easier to used. Get the labels the right way up, and not over lapping on top of each other. Also for the labeling, you have control of the the content that is shown. Click a part shows in in Inspector (if that is turned on). The label can be edited. Click a part then right click the label has a menu option for ‘Display values’. Resistors for example have a resistance value. They are typically given label value of R0, R1, etc., and shown on the pcb as some combination or that label and/or the resistance. Other properties can be included in the label when desired.

Position any labels so that it is obvious which part it is associated with. Then labels are to long to fit, especially multi-work labels, shorten them, then add a second line using a text part (near bottom of the core bin parts)

You say that input and output connections will be grounded through the jack cases. It is not good to rely on that. Can you be SURE that the jacks are all connected together, so that the ground really always gets back to the circuit board?

Small repositioning of a few components can make the routing cleaner. Here is an export of the pcb image from your sketch, and a version with some of that implement. Not complete, not optimized, but should give some ideas on what can be done.

And the modified sketch file to go with that, so you can check the property values and individual part label configurations.
VCO fritz file.fzz (24.1 KB)

1 Like

This is an amazing reply!

I didn’t even know I made the traces a different size so thanks for pointing that out. The silkscreen tips will be a huge help too when I’m putting this together.

Changing the grid size will be huge (puns). Can I ask why 90 degree bends aren’t advised? Easy enough to fix just like to know why.

It’s easy enough to add grounds for the jacks so maybe I will just to have it.

Thanks again! this is a huge help.

Also, I didn’t think to run traces under the resistors, there’s not problems with that?

I’m not an expert, but I believe the sharp corners have higher signal losses, which (for power traces) translates to heat as well. For something like this, it is not important. Just a habit to get into, to avoid using them when practical. Traces underneath other components are fine. On either top or bottom layer, anywhere the part does not have a copper pad (or mounting hole).

This has helped me out a lot, thanks again. Nice to see a forum community that is welcoming and helpful.

1 Like