This is a question about using a second existing PCB in my design.
I read that brass standoffs can be used to connect a PCB to another and connect the circuit itself. ie. Not isolated.
In this design, I’d like to use these buck converters, connected using brass standoffs. Amazon.ca
Assuming this isn’t a terrible idea, how can I ensure my PCB has pads around the throughhole on the correct side of the board?
Here’s the design, which includes a part for the buck converter.
buzzer.fzz (69.1 KB)
Is there’s a better approach to stepping down voltage for hobbyist esp32 designs?
2 problems, there likely isn’t a Fritzing part for that particular board (easy enough for me to correct that though!) and there are no holes to allow for the brass standoffs. The mini 360 part you used in the sketch is probably a better bet. It has holes that you can either solder wires in or use a 0.1header to make it pluginable. As noted in the other thread you need to check the pcb footprint matches the part you have as well.
Using headers to make it pluggable. I like that idea! Seems much simpler than brass standoffs.
I thought the fritzing part was the same. 17x11 Mini 360. How can you tell it’s not the same?
I was looking at the pictures wrong, it does look like the original Min360, the angle of the photos however made it look like there were not holes, only solder pads. A closer look says that is just a bad camera angle not reality. It would be wise to check the footprint against a real part though, sometimes the parts change sizes over time as someone else makes a copy. The mini 360 Fritzing part is configured with standard 0.038in holes to take 0.1in headers.