Designing a new PCB working only in Schematic View

As I am not going to do a Breadboard build of my circuit, I have been designing a new PCB working only in the PCB view which now looks good.
However when doing a design rules check there are many reported errors in the final layout and small red marks on the Schematic view:
Part wire ‘Wire 1189’ is overlapping (bottom layer)
Part ‘Electrolytic Cap’ is overlapping (bottom layer)
Part ‘220 Ohm resistor R4’ is overlapping (bottom layer)
The circuit operates from a 9V battery and only one “large” 220mFd 12V Cap all the other Caps are small.

I have tried moving the position of the effected components on the PCB but the errors & red marks remain.

When doing a printout, the PCB all appears fine.

Comments please.

Upload the .fzz sketch file (7th icon from the left in the reply menu) and one of us will have a look at what may be wrong.


You click on the error a red line appears on the PCB, then it’s up to you to decide if it’s ok. You can look at the gerbers to see if there really is a gap, but I usually let them go if I see a gap. I think 0.006" is the limit for PCB houses.

Check you design rules and see if they are set to match your manufacturers guidelines. The default settings in Fritzing are for very simple boards. I tend to set mine to 0.008 for the board shop I use but can go even lower at times.

In the previous PCB I made, I never checked it using the rules check and
the PCB I made, came out fine.
I will probably ignore the rules check errors again as whatever changes I
make to my PCB design the design errors reported still remain.
My printout onto plain paper looks fine but too light.

I previously used my Brother HL-L2365DW printer to print out the design
quite dark onto magazine paper and I was able to transfer the design onto
the copper laminate & etch it successfully.

Now unfortunately using my same Brother printer, the printout design it is
far too light!
The printer’s dialogue has not reported a need to change the printer
I have tried some web suggestions for printing darker but nothing so far
has helped.
I started using Ubuntu Linux a little while ago and not being very familiar with it as yet, it may be just a setting in Linux that needs changing for a darker print but I don’t know.

So stumped again!

Are you using File/Export/for Production/Etchable PDF.

Ebay sells waxed yellow toner transfer paper that works great, just peel the backing and print - I don’t think I even use dark because the tracks squash wider when you iron it -.

I used file export.

I used some yellow film I bought on E-Bay for making PCB’s some time ago but the toner did not stick at all to the film.

Can you send me the link for the waxed yellow transfer paper & I will get some to try.
I am using a Brother HL-L2365DW Laser printer which has worked fine in the past. It maybe that the particular piece of magazine paper I used was not suitable. Maybe too freshly printed.

Also from the net it seems that Brother printers are not the preferred make for this purpose.

“for Production/Etchable PDF” ?

You peel off the super sticky brown cardboard and print on the shiny inside. I checked and I use darkest. Also print out a 40 pin header and iron it to a PCB and measure it to see if it shrinks and needs scaling - if you don’t have long runs of holes don’t worry about it -.

Thanks for the suggestion to use the yellow waxed paper.
Your suggestion reminded me that I actually had some which I bought ages ago and never used.
I used a laminator for doing the heat transfer.
First try with the Yellow paper and it worked perfectly.

I tired a lot of things, and they kind-of worked, but nothing is as easy as the yellow paper.

When I got mine I didn’t know there was a shiny inside so I used it as is :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:, but I started thinking it should be easier than that, because lots of people sell it as “toner transfer” etch paper, and that’s when I realised you peel the brown paper off.