Designing a new PCB working only in Schematic View


#1

As I am not going to do a Breadboard build of my circuit, I have been designing a new PCB working only in the PCB view which now looks good.
However when doing a design rules check there are many reported errors in the final layout and small red marks on the Schematic view:
(Typically):
Part wire ‘Wire 1189’ is overlapping (bottom layer)
Part ‘Electrolytic Cap’ is overlapping (bottom layer)
Part ‘220 Ohm resistor R4’ is overlapping (bottom layer)
The circuit operates from a 9V battery and only one “large” 220mFd 12V Cap all the other Caps are small.

I have tried moving the position of the effected components on the PCB but the errors & red marks remain.

When doing a printout, the PCB all appears fine.

Comments please.


#2

Upload the .fzz sketch file (7th icon from the left in the reply menu) and one of us will have a look at what may be wrong.

Peter


#3

You click on the error a red line appears on the PCB, then it’s up to you to decide if it’s ok. You can look at the gerbers to see if there really is a gap, but I usually let them go if I see a gap. I think 0.006" is the limit for PCB houses.


#4

Check you design rules and see if they are set to match your manufacturers guidelines. The default settings in Fritzing are for very simple boards. I tend to set mine to 0.008 for the board shop I use but can go even lower at times.


#5

In the previous PCB I made, I never checked it using the rules check and
the PCB I made, came out fine.
I will probably ignore the rules check errors again as whatever changes I
make to my PCB design the design errors reported still remain.
My printout onto plain paper looks fine but too light.

I previously used my Brother HL-L2365DW printer to print out the design
quite dark onto magazine paper and I was able to transfer the design onto
the copper laminate & etch it successfully.

Now unfortunately using my same Brother printer, the printout design it is
far too light!
The printer’s dialogue has not reported a need to change the printer
cartridge.
I have tried some web suggestions for printing darker but nothing so far
has helped.
I started using Ubuntu Linux a little while ago and not being very familiar with it as yet, it may be just a setting in Linux that needs changing for a darker print but I don’t know.

So stumped again!
Syd


#6

Are you using File/Export/for Production/Etchable PDF.

Ebay sells waxed yellow toner transfer paper that works great, just peel the backing and print - I don’t think I even use dark because the tracks squash wider when you iron it -.


#7

Hi
I used file export.

I used some yellow film I bought on E-Bay for making PCB’s some time ago but the toner did not stick at all to the film.

Can you send me the link for the waxed yellow transfer paper & I will get some to try.
I am using a Brother HL-L2365DW Laser printer which has worked fine in the past. It maybe that the particular piece of magazine paper I used was not suitable. Maybe too freshly printed.

Also from the net it seems that Brother printers are not the preferred make for this purpose.


#8

“for Production/Etchable PDF” ?

You peel off the super sticky brown cardboard and print on the shiny inside. I checked and I use darkest. Also print out a 40 pin header and iron it to a PCB and measure it to see if it shrinks and needs scaling - if you don’t have long runs of holes don’t worry about it -.
https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=yellow+toner+transfer+paper&LH_PrefLoc=2&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xtoner+transfer+paper.TRS0&_nkw=toner+transfer+paper&_sacat=0


#9

Thanks for the suggestion to use the yellow waxed paper.
Your suggestion reminded me that I actually had some which I bought ages ago and never used.
I used a laminator for doing the heat transfer.
First try with the Yellow paper and it worked perfectly.


#10

I tired a lot of things, and they kind-of worked, but nothing is as easy as the yellow paper.

When I got mine I didn’t know there was a shiny inside so I used it as is :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:, but I started thinking it should be easier than that, because lots of people sell it as “toner transfer” etch paper, and that’s when I realised you peel the brown paper off.