Part request: 5 way tactile switch 10x10mm


#1

Hello all,

For a project I used a small joystick 5 way switch break-out board (Aliexpress link)

I want to put everything on the PCB and a bigger 5 way switch.
So I want to put the following 5 way switch on the PCB in fritzing:
5 Direction way Tact Switch SMD 6 Pin 10109mm for Navigation (AliExpress link)
Find below an image of the button and pinout.

I cannot find this part in Fritzing and cannot find it posted on this forum.
Can someone please help me make this 6 pad SMD tactile switch? (only need PCB view)
And or point me to a good tutorial so that I can learn it?

Many thanks in advance,
Bou

pinout:

  1. Common
  2. Left
  3. Center
  4. Up
  5. Right
  6. Down

FYI, I use this ‘joystick’ to navigate through a menu on an arduino and use 5 ports to read it. However you could give all the 5 ways different resistors and use 1 analoge port on the arduino to navigate.
FYI 2, I use Fritzing to design PCBs to make my project look professional! Eagle was difficult, but Fritzing saved my life!


#2

I saw this but forgot about it. Here is a part that may do (the data isn’t as complete as I’d like). This is a full part (cloned from a Sparkfun smaller version of this). You need to print out the footprint and check it against a real part before ordering boards. I think the mounting holes (or what I think are mounting holes) are in the correct place but they may be a little large (1mm against .7m for the pin I think).

JOYSTICK_10mm.fzpz (9.2 KB)

Tutorials on part making (which is fairly complex) are available here:

Peter


#3

vanepp you are a life saver, thanks!
I printed it and I think it is going to be alright.

FYI, I want to use this bigger part because I can add a cap on the joystick, which is difficult with the smaller version.

The problem for me with making my own parts is that I miss basic illustrator or inkscape skills.
I need to do some basic tutorials to build that up…
I just like playing around with electronics more, then graphic design.


#4

Parts making has a long learning curve (as does Inkscape) but once you are past that it gets easier, if you only need one part it is usually easier to get one of us to do it for you. One thing you may want to consider is the four mounting holes, it isn’t clear to me if they should have pads to solder the legs to for mechanical stability. At present they are bare holes but may be better with a pad to solder to hold the switch down when you are moving it. I can add pads to the mounting holes if you like (but because it is smd they won’t be plated through and I don’t know if that will be a problem for the board house).

Peter


#5

Hi Peter,

I would prefer pads as there are components on the other side of the PCB.
So if you could change them to pads than I will just bend those small legs.
I do not have the part yet so I cannot say what it exactly is.

Thanks again.
Bou


#6

OK here is a part with mounting pads on top (with a slighly smaller .035 in (about .9mm) hole. I can’t figure a way to get through hole pads on a smd part (if I make it through hole it puts extra pads on the bottom layer and the connectors get odd). It may be the solution is to set the mounting pads on the silkscreen layer and after you place the part you copy a via (and change the hole size) to get a plated through pad for the mounting holes (or maybe someone else knows how to mix tht and smd in a single part). This has the same sequence number as the original so only one or the other can be loaded at one time.

JOYSTICK_10mm_mounting_pads.fzpz (9.3 KB)

Peter


#7

Thank you so much Peter @vanepp


#8

The Joystick arrived. It is a nice little thing.
I can probably solder the sheet to the holes for making it sit strongly on the PCB.
There are small pins to lock it in place which are not in the PCB.
I will remove them for now, but will add small holes to the pcb for the future.

@vanepp, or are you willing to build in these small holes?
The pins are 3mm away from the top of the part and are 2.2mm away from the middle.
The pins are 0.7mm, so holes of 0.9 should be a nice fit.


#9

It’s going to take a better datasheet than the one above to locate the pins unless you use oversized holes to make up for inaccuracies.

Things like, 3mm to center or edge of pin etc.


#10

A perfect world with accurate and complete datasheets would be nice indeed.
I can make a drawing if you like… I just thought that the description would be enough.


#11

I know Peter would prefer the datasheet, because after all he is doing an engineering drawing, but anything is better than nothing.

Sometimes I Goo a part and sometimes someone selling it will add a number, and that usually allows you to find a datasheet - usually in Chinese but the dimensions can be read -. I usually do a search and click images and then it’s easy to identify the part and go to it’s source.

EDIT
Is this the one.
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=5+Direction+way+Tact+Switch+SMD&client=opera&hs=whQ&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV_9HZ78zXAhWFq5QKHY92AkIQsAQIJw&biw=1440&bih=801#imgrc=0JkIaJVhwSWNtM:


#12

I searched a lot but didn’t find it.
You link shows a 7x7 switch, which is not the same, however the right one as in the search results! Nice find! Thanks!

Also find the drawing below:


#13

This shows up a couple of errors in pad layout that the other didn’t. I’ll correct them and add the holes from this. I had assumed the pads were evenly spaced when in fact this shows them offset slightly. A relatively minor (but perhaps important) adjustment to the footprint.

edit: OK, this should be a better footprint with the two new mounting holes and the pads set to what they recommended (and offset slightly in Y as the new drawing indicates). Again a printout and check with the real part is recommended.

Edit: removed and replaced by a corrected version below.

Peter


#14

Thanks Peter!

After placing, printing and fitting the part I see that the drawing found on ‘the google’ was not correct.
Sorry, my bad, should have seen it and pointed it out.

The pins on the part and the holes on the PCB should be 1.05mm below the centerline of the top pad. Not the bodem one… Could you change that?
And maybe also remove the one sided via’s as? Maybe change them into pads so that the housing of the part can be soldered to the board for stability or shielding (if applicable)?

Find below a paint drawing that tries to illustrate the changes:


#15

It looks like this one.
http://www.sunrom.com/p/5-way-tactile-switch


#16

That looks like it! although I would say that the orientation of the right top image is upside down…


#17

OK here is a version corrected to the this footprint drawing:

JOYSTICK_10mm_fixed_pcb1.fzpz (9.3 KB)

Peter


#18

Awesome PETER, thanks!

You have been a big help to my projects so far! And I feel a bit guilty taking some of your time for new components.
Do you except donations somewhere?


#19

Not so far, I’m retired and find Fritzing interesting. Donations cause paperwork and taxes which don’t interest me. Having learned to make parts, its now fairly easy to make new ones, but it isn’t easy for someone new to part making so I tend to help. As a side effect it helps me learn more about part making.

Peter